On the morning of June 14th, I arrived in Yerevan, Armenia by night train from Tbilisi, Georgia. I made my way out of the train station and started to look around for the metro so I could get to my hostel. When I got there, the Greek and Italian from the border crossing were waiting to get on and the Italian was staying at the same hostel as me. I let him take control and guide us, I was too tired to navigate. When we got to the hostel I took a shower and went to get a cup of coffee. Right as I finished said cup of coffee, I decided that maybe I should try to sleep a little bit more before going out and exploring.
I went up to my dorm room and tried to sleep, but due to the caffeine intake I couldn’t, so I sat and made a plan of attack for the day and how to execute it. I started off going to the Sergei Paradjanov Museum. I didn’t know much about him going in, but along the way I found out that he was born to Armenian parents in Tbilisi, Georgia in 1924. From there things started clicking. This winter I saw some of one his films on TV with my host parents, who could not stop raving about how he was such an amazing director. To be honest it was more me, sitting reading a book on my laptop, trying to ignore it. I don’t care for watching movies that aren’t in English without subtitles for the first time. (I’m currently downloading three of his films to watch, I was so inspired by the museum I need to see them now.) I also questioned my host families taste in entertainment ever since the first week I was there and they made me watch a Candid Camera Russian type show, except the whole point was girls surprising people by exposing parts of their nude bodies and thinking it was the best things ever.
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| Sign to the museum |
His artwork took the form of mostly collage, photomontage, assemblage, and readymades that were amazing examples of Dadaism. The subject matter used a lot of children's toys, photos of loved ones, and political objects. I loved wandering through the small building, waiting to see what was around the next corner, however it is also a place that I would not want to be if I was on psychotropic drugs. I admire Paradjanov, for still pursing his art, even though the Soviet Union did not look kindly upon him for it and imprisoning him numerous times, because he did not conform to the socialist realism style that was acceptable for that time period.
I spent about an hour and a half there and admission was only 700AMD (about $1.70) Super score for a budget traveler. I also couldn’t help myself and had to buy a magnet for 1000AMD ($2.41) and five pictures for 200AMD each ($.48) that I am going to put around my room and look at when I am lacking artistic motivation to create something.
I left the museum and decided that it was too hot, close to 100ºF, to eat a heavy lunch so I stopped and bought a half pound of cherries($.35, thats right I spent 35 cents on them) and a diet coke. I walked to a park near the opera house and people watched while I ate. I also pulled out my camera and did some stealth photography of people waiting to cross the road. (I know I am a creep sometimes.)
After I was doing having my lunch time fun I went to the Cafesjian Museum of Contemporary Art. The outside building its self is impressive and a work of art, made to look like a cascade. I made my way inside and bought my ticket for 1000AMD ($2.41) and was told that I could take picture of certain exhibits. I road about seven escalators to the top, to Star Landing, for the Swarovski Crystal Palace exhibition. All of the art installations were beautiful and showed a range of things that could be done with the material, which of course was Swarovski Crystals.
I then went down to the Eagle Gallery, which currently has ‘Yerevan Collectors’ Choice’ on display. I was really struck by some of the artwork in this gallery. All of it was by Armenian artists that I had never heard of before, and even googling them now, it is hard to find more information on them. I was really pleased that the only other person in the room with me was the guard, so I could stay lost in though, gazing, while he silently strolled around playing on his phone.
The next gallery I went to was the Eagle Garden Gallery, with ‘In the Mind of the Collector’ on display. Mr. Cafesjian, collected things that one may not normally call art, but when taking a different view point it is easy to see that some could argue they are. I had a slightly giddy feeling in this portion of the museum, as they had a 1906 Model N Ford Runabout, a Wabash steam locomotive, and an electric advertising automaton of a baton twirling girl who was dressed in red, white, and blue. It made me nostalgic for America and proud at the same time to see this items so far away from where they had come from on display. (I did, however, find the automaton very creepy.)
The museum also has a beautiful three panel mural, painted by Grigor Khanjyan, that tells the story of Armenia’s history. I found it made me want to learn more about the history of the country, as there are famous people throughout the ages painted into it. This is clearly a nation of people who are extremely proud to be who they are, even through all the invasions and hardships.
Over all I thought it was a great collection of Armenian art and art from around the world. It is well worth a visit, if you ever find yourself in Yerevan, but between my art intake and the heat, it was time for me to take a break and go to a cafe. I went to one that was still in sight of the museum and had Turkish coffee and something that I don’t know what it is called, but I have a picture of it for your viewing pleasure. I can tell you that it was delicious and well worth the $3 I spent.
That night I went to the main square to have dinner at a roof top restaurant. (yes I was living the high life.) It was nice to be a little above the city to get a breeze and a little relief from the heat. I ordered chicken with orange sauce and I had completely forgotten that meat doesn’t always have bones in it. (If you’ve lived in Georgia you know what I am talking about.) After dinner was done I went down to the fountain in the main square, where they put on a show from 10-11pm every night in the summer months. I stood and looked up as water sprayed up into the sky along to classical music and changing color. It looked like upside down fireworks. I stayed for a few songs, but I was ready to go to bed after my full and eventful day in Yerevan.
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